The trend isn't away from drinking, it's away from beer. Seltzers and other malt-based drinks have had huge growth in the past few years, mostly at the expense of beer sales, and liquor sales are up as well.
I wonder how much of this is the beer industry eating its own seedcorn by focusing more and more on super bitter IPAs that beer snobs love at the expense of more middle of the road palatable beers. The long term consequence of that plus beer snobbery looking down on light beers is that younger drinkers with sweeter palates just don't drink beer at all because the beer that is socially acceptable is too bitter for them and the beers they'd like get mocked.
I really despise this about the American beer industry. Your typical tap list these days is 8 IPAs, 1-2 dIPAs, 4 sours, something that contains coffee, some other weird shit (cucumber göse e.g.), and like one normal everyday lager or pilsener that isn't making some sort of personality statement and pairs well with food. Worse, this appears to be catching on among trendier bars in Europe, even in places like Munich and Vienna that have had spectacular beer for centuries and should know better.
They're there because they sell, and they sell because people like them. IMO one pilsner or lager is enough; what's the point of having a whole bar full of different beers that all pretty much taste the same? They certainly don't justify the premium pricing that these bars often charge.
Germans think their own beer is the best in the world. To the rest of us, it is reliable but boring. It's not just an American thing, Scandinavia and the UK also have a much greater variety of styles and tastes. I think all that's happening in Munich and Vienna is people are getting more exposure to this variety and are realising they like it.
As an American, I find German lagers to be just as varied and interesting as American IPAs. I didn't realize this until I moved near a pub with multiple rotating taps of German lagers.
Later, I went to Oktoberfest, and tried multiple fresh lagers a day for four days, which only convinced me further.
I am convinced, in general, that we don't notice subtle variations within styles of (beer, wine, music, etc) until we are repeatedly presented with multiple options within thay style. Of course it'll seem like all lagers taste the same if you only have one good lager to try at a time.
I visit the Great American Beer Festival nearly every year, and there was definitely a period where everyone was all-in on relatively extreme beers: ipas, sours, bourbon-barrel aged stouts. Last year, I saw a refreshing trend towards pilsners, lighter lagers, and ambers. I feel like GABF is a bit of a bellweather for these things - west coast craft beer bars will probably take a few years to catch up, but I think we're headed in the right direction.
> Your typical tap list these days is 8 IPAs, 1-2 dIPAs, 4 sours, something that contains coffee, some other weird shit...
Yup. I live close to a bunch of breweries in Seattle. The taplists of the two nearest are:
Stoup:
// IPAs:
Mosaic Pale Ale
Citra IPA
Chur to Twelve IPA
Rainbow Bubbles IPA
Nothing Crazy IPA
Simcoe Studies IPA
Stoup Dog IPA
Sir Dank A Lot IPA
Space Garden IPA
Paraderade IPA
Easy A IPA
// Everything else:
German Style Pilsner
NW Red
Imperial Porter
Cervecita Mexican Lager
Bavarian Hefeweizen
What a Tart Raspberry Sour
Bale Breaker:
// IPAs:
Field 41 Pale Ale
Topcutter IPA
Bottomcutter IIPA
Daybreak Pale Ale
Hazy L IPA
Frenz IPA: Sierra Nevada
Long White Clouds IPA
Evenfall Hazy IPA
Bubba's Brew IPA
Bale Breaker Why the Ek-Not IPA
Bale Breaker Tropical Penguin
// Everything else:
Bale Breaker Pilsner PNW Pilsner
Dormancy Stout - Coffee
Raging Ditch Dry-Hopped Blonde Blonde Ale
Bale Breaker Pasketti Sauce Pilsner - Italian
YOXI Lime Agave Ranch Water Hard Seltzer
And note that even the "everything else" category can't escape the "hop the fuck out of everything" trend. Stoup's pilsner is described as "spicy hop aroma and refreshingly dry, hop-forward finish". The Red "provides a distinctly Northwest hop character".
I get it, Cascadia grows a lot of hops. But some of us just want to taste beer and not win some macho contest to see who can choke down the most IBUs per fluid ounce.
Heh, I wish there were four sours at most bars; that's what I usually find most interesting and tasty (I also enjoy porters/stouts, but rarely see much of those these days). Most bars I see don't even have sours, and if they do, it's usually only one or two, at most.
I was never the biggest beer drinker, but the lack of choice (and flood of crappy IPAs over the past couple decades) has only pushed me farther toward cocktails and wine.
You can also get the Makku Makgeolli from supermarkets now and it's quite sweet. And I also saw some other sweeter beers. I'm not a big megahops fan, so being able to have alternatives to IPAs is nice.
That's how they lost me for sure. I can go to a local bar or microbrewery and see a huge beer on tap selection, but they're all bitter artsy stuff. It's nothing like 20 years ago when there was actually a pretty broad range of flavors on the menu. Reminds me of the old Ford quote "you can have any color you like as long as it's black".
Seltzers are also basically no empty calories. I feel like millennials (like me) and gen Z are increasingly aware of this, we don't care about the alcohol, but we do care about drinking liquid sugar or liquid bread.
And seltzers are great cause many are naturally sweetened, no artificial sweeteners either, whether they're bad or not is still up for debate I suppose.
Slate's been doing a great series over the past week about these trends if you're interested: https://slate.com/tag/beer-package.